First Ascent: Geoff Weigand, 1989
The direct finish to High Dive (23) in the Northern Group that takes on a tricky steep section into Power Corruption and Lies before that final mantel was first graded 31, but now is considered 29 by many and is a must do single pitch route at Mount Arapilies.
Watch Tower Crack
First Ascent: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1966
A classic Mount Arapilies climb. Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam. Not hard to miss this line on the approach into the base.
pitch 1: 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.
pitch 2: 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave
pitch 3: 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.
pitch 4: 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.
John Ewbank, Chris Baxter (pitches 1-4, M5 & pre), 1969
Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst (14M5 with hammers & 18-), 1969
Rick White, John Hattink (FCA & mids)., 1970
Running up the stunning North Wall of the Mount Buffalo Gorge. Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.
pitch 1: 25m (- M2) Two bolts off the deck to L-trending slab (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack.
pitch 2: 35m (- M4) Sustained aiding up the thin corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. Cam hooks are useful, but far from necessary. Take plenty of RPs and wires regardless.
pitch 3: 40m (- M4) Continue up the corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Move left to ledge with tree to belay.
pitch 4: 8m (10) This last bit to Big Grassy is best kept as a separate pitch to avoid ridiculous rope drag. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.
pitch 5: 35m (- M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the L line after 20m, then up to DBB at start of amazing corner.
pitch 6: 30m (- M2) Up the corner. Belay off to the L.
pitch 7: 35m (- M3) Some awkward times lie ahead. Up through the dirty cracks and bulges. Finish at semi-hanging TBB.
pitch 8: 15m (- M2) Traverse L to ledge.
pitch 9: 20m (14) Chimneys.
pitch 10: 25m (10) More chimneys.
First Ascent: Lee Cossey, 2013
A short hard classic of the Blue Mountains. A bouldery start into a definite crux and then onto Euro pumping to a tricky potentially heart breaking finish. Modern day route weighing in at 33 for all young and old sport climbers. Well worth the journey out of the trees.
Meet the Team
the climbers on the product
#1 Ninja Warroir
#2 Ninja Warrior
#3 Ninja Warrior